Evening couture dresses from Chanel evolved into an elongated feminine style.Summer dresses had contrasting scintillating touches (e.g. rhinestone straps and silver eyelets). Coco designed a line for petite women in 1937. Throughout the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli was competing more strongly with the House of Chanel, but this was only a short term rivalry. Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the pieces, including the "Comet" and "Fountain" necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993. When World War II began in 1939, Coco Chanel retired and moved into the H?tel Ritz Paris with her new beau, Nazi officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage. Only her parfums and accessories were sold in her existing boutiques.
When France fell under the control of Adolf Hitler's Nazi Germany in 1940, the Nazis made the opulent and exclusive Hotel Meurice (Le Meurice), located on the Rue du Rivoli opposite the Louvre, their French headquarters. It was coincidentally and uncomfortably close (just right around the corner) from Chanel's Rue Cambon location. Pierre Wertheimer and his family fled to the United States in 1940, and before Coco could take control of Parfums Chanel, Wertheimer made an "Aryan proxy" for the company. Rumors spread that Coco was on good terms with the Germans.
Chanel biographer Edmonde Charles-Roux states that German intelligence sent her to "visit Winston Churchill as a part of a secret peace mission. Coco Chanel was arrested immediately after the liberation of France and charged with abetting the Germans, but Churchill intervened on her behalf and she was released." When France was liberated after the fall of the Nazi Empire, many French people meted out severe punishments to French women who were believed to have collaborated with the Nazis. They were called in French "collaborateurs horizontales" or in English: "on their backs collaborators"--perhaps putting too fine a point upon it. Coco Chanel became a target and a subject of such rumors, and she fled to Switzerland for the period immediately following the war.
In Coco's absence, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris to control the Wertheimer's family holdings. Out of spite, Coco created her own collection of perfumes. Wertheimer felt his legal rights were infringed, but he wanted to avoid a legal battle and settled with Coco by giving her $400,000 USD, 2% royalty from all Chanel products, and gave her limited rights to sell her own perfumes in Switzerland.[6] Coco stopped making perfumes after the agreement. She sold the complete rights to her name to the Wertheimers for Perfumes Chanel, in exchange for a monthly stipend. The stipend supported her and her friend, von Dincklage.
2011年10月28日星期五
Wertheimer reminded Coco
Theophile Bader (founder of the successful French department store Galeries Lafayette) introduced Coco to Pierre Wertheimer. Wertheimer retained 70% of Parfums Chanel, while Bader retained 20%, and Coco a modest 10%. Coco was forced to operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel. In 1924, Coco introduced her first costume jewelry, which was a pair of pearl earrings, one black, one white.
Along with the success of her haute couture business, Coco expanded her "social desirability and her personal legend." A new love interest in her life was the Duke of Westminster.She introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and in 1926, the ‘little black dress,' and a tweed, inspired by visits to Scotland. Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the Louvre.
As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco and Wertheimer soured. She resented the partnership with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more than 10% of the profits, and believed that the Wertheimers were exploiting her talents for their own personal gain. Wertheimer reminded Coco that he had funded her venture, and that he had made her a wealthy woman.
Coco hired René de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the Wertheimers, but this attempt ultimately failed.
Along with the success of her haute couture business, Coco expanded her "social desirability and her personal legend." A new love interest in her life was the Duke of Westminster.She introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and in 1926, the ‘little black dress,' and a tweed, inspired by visits to Scotland. Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the Louvre.
As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco and Wertheimer soured. She resented the partnership with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more than 10% of the profits, and believed that the Wertheimers were exploiting her talents for their own personal gain. Wertheimer reminded Coco that he had funded her venture, and that he had made her a wealthy woman.
Coco hired René de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the Wertheimers, but this attempt ultimately failed.
2011年10月27日星期四
Chris Kirk was alone in fourth
The North Course lived up to its billing as the easier of the two in use for the tournament, although changes to the layout have narrowed the difference in degree of difficulty compared to the South Course.
"I think it will probably be about two shots, maybe," Woods said. "I think it has been as much as four here, maybe four-plus in some years. Not this year. It's just too fast, too dry."
All of the top four players on the leaderboard played the North Course, while the 67s of Mickelson, Daly and Gomez were the lowest scores posted on the South.
Woods, who is seeking a return to the form that made him the game's most dominant player, said he was happy with his swing but regretted his inability to capitalize on the par-fives.
"I'm happy with the way I played, absolutely," Woods said. "It could have been a lot better if I took care of the par-fives a little bit more, but obviously I didn't do that.
"So, hopefully on the South course I can take care of the par-fives and put together a little bit better round," said Woods, who won the title here from 2005-2008 all after middling first rounds.
Kang, meanwhile, played the par-fives in four-under - jumpstarting a round that began on the 10th tee with an eagle at the par-five 14th.
"I hit driver down the fairway and I had 220 to the pin," Kang said. "Tried to hit a little cut shot out with my hybrid and it just landed right next to the pin and went over the green a little bit and I just chipped it in from there."
Birdies at the par-five 18th and par-five sixth were among the six birdies that saw the 24-year-old from Jeju top the leaderboard in just his second US tour event.
"All the par-fives are reachable," Kang said. "I really tried to keep to the fairways and it worked really well. I really had good chances on par-fives, I made two birdies and one eagle ... that's why I played very well today."
Kang, who earned his tour card with a tie for 16th at qualifying school, led a youthful leaderboard. Fowler turned 22 in December, Prugh is 26 and the 25-year-old Kirk is a graduate of the Nationwide developmental tour.
But the group at 67 also included some veteran talent in Mickelson and Daly. Reigning Masters champion Mickelson posted the most recent of his three US tour wins at this event in 2001, while Daly's 2004 triumph makes him the last player to win at Torrey when Woods was in the field.
"It seems a long time ago," said Daly, who missed the cut here last year and stomped off the course saying he was "done," a remark thought by many to indicate he would retire.
Instead he has persevered.
"You get frustrated, but this place means a lot to me. The top golfers play here every year, that says something. It's a special place."
Those top golfers are now chasing Kang, but the unassuming leader said he still thinks of the likes of Woods and Mickelson as teachers rather than competitors.
"I don't really try to beat them or something. I'm trying to learn from them all the time," Kang said. "I don't want to put any pressure on me, so I'm really just trying to have fun."
"I think it will probably be about two shots, maybe," Woods said. "I think it has been as much as four here, maybe four-plus in some years. Not this year. It's just too fast, too dry."
All of the top four players on the leaderboard played the North Course, while the 67s of Mickelson, Daly and Gomez were the lowest scores posted on the South.
Woods, who is seeking a return to the form that made him the game's most dominant player, said he was happy with his swing but regretted his inability to capitalize on the par-fives.
"I'm happy with the way I played, absolutely," Woods said. "It could have been a lot better if I took care of the par-fives a little bit more, but obviously I didn't do that.
"So, hopefully on the South course I can take care of the par-fives and put together a little bit better round," said Woods, who won the title here from 2005-2008 all after middling first rounds.
Kang, meanwhile, played the par-fives in four-under - jumpstarting a round that began on the 10th tee with an eagle at the par-five 14th.
"I hit driver down the fairway and I had 220 to the pin," Kang said. "Tried to hit a little cut shot out with my hybrid and it just landed right next to the pin and went over the green a little bit and I just chipped it in from there."
Birdies at the par-five 18th and par-five sixth were among the six birdies that saw the 24-year-old from Jeju top the leaderboard in just his second US tour event.
"All the par-fives are reachable," Kang said. "I really tried to keep to the fairways and it worked really well. I really had good chances on par-fives, I made two birdies and one eagle ... that's why I played very well today."
Kang, who earned his tour card with a tie for 16th at qualifying school, led a youthful leaderboard. Fowler turned 22 in December, Prugh is 26 and the 25-year-old Kirk is a graduate of the Nationwide developmental tour.
But the group at 67 also included some veteran talent in Mickelson and Daly. Reigning Masters champion Mickelson posted the most recent of his three US tour wins at this event in 2001, while Daly's 2004 triumph makes him the last player to win at Torrey when Woods was in the field.
"It seems a long time ago," said Daly, who missed the cut here last year and stomped off the course saying he was "done," a remark thought by many to indicate he would retire.
Instead he has persevered.
"You get frustrated, but this place means a lot to me. The top golfers play here every year, that says something. It's a special place."
Those top golfers are now chasing Kang, but the unassuming leader said he still thinks of the likes of Woods and Mickelson as teachers rather than competitors.
"I don't really try to beat them or something. I'm trying to learn from them all the time," Kang said. "I don't want to put any pressure on me, so I'm really just trying to have fun."
2011年10月24日星期一
Football 4
Arsenal and England midfielder Jack Wilshere could be out until late February after undergoing ankle surgery on Monday, adding to the woes of the Premier League club.
He suffered a stress fracture of his right ankle in a pre-season friendly and it failed to heal naturally.
"The initial indications are that the surgery has been successful and Jack will now undergo a prolonged period of rehabilitation," a club statement said.
"It is envisaged Jack's rehabilitation will take a period of four to five months."
Arsenal are 12th in the league after six games and have struggled without the midfielder, who had forced his way into the England first team before his injury.
http://sportswearus.com/
He suffered a stress fracture of his right ankle in a pre-season friendly and it failed to heal naturally.
"The initial indications are that the surgery has been successful and Jack will now undergo a prolonged period of rehabilitation," a club statement said.
"It is envisaged Jack's rehabilitation will take a period of four to five months."
Arsenal are 12th in the league after six games and have struggled without the midfielder, who had forced his way into the England first team before his injury.
http://sportswearus.com/
Football 3
LONDON - Robin van Persie has emerged as the man to lead Arsenal out of their early-season funk and the Dutch striker will be a key figure in ensuring their rehabilitation continues in the Champions League at home to Olympiakos on Wednesday.
Van Persie, club skipper in the wake of Cesc Fabregas's exit to Barcelona, scored twice in a 3-0 home victory against Bolton Wanderers on Saturday - a win that helped steady the ship after the club's worst start to a Premier League campaign.
Despite that fillip there is still a long way to go before the doom-mongers disperse and anything short of victory on Wednesday against a club with an abysmal record in England would offer them more ammunition.
Olympiakos have lost all nine away games against English opposition in Europe, conceding 29 goals in the process and scoring just once - a record that suggests even an Arsenal side in transition should build on their opening draw in Dortmund with a convincing home win.
Van Persie, 28, has scored five goals already this season and Wenger believes the Dutchman, who British media reported on Monday was in no rush to extend his current deal beyond 2013, is now mature enough to lead from the front, both as a goalscorer and a motivator.
"Robin has matured from the boy who was a little bit emotionally impulsive when he arrived to the guy he is today," Wenger told Arsenal's website.
"It was difficult to predict but he is intelligent, he speaks his mind and you can talk to him as well. He takes advice and overall he has developed very well.
"I think he has a combination of leadership on the pitch. He is technically a super-talent, certainly, and you gain respect from the others. Now he has added the second part, that means speaking his mind."
In the wake of the defensive mayhem of an 8-2 defeat at Manchester United and a 4-3 loss at Blackburn Rovers, Arsenal looked far more secure against Bolton with German Per Mertesacker assuming the role of organiser at the back.
"After the four goals against Blackburn we lost a little bit of confidence but we were very proud of our performance on Saturday," he said. "We want to go on with this way of defending."
Arsenal have a formidable record at the Emirates in the Champions League and Wenger knows smooth progression to the knockout rounds will depend on avoiding any upsets at home.
"In the Champions League, you need 11 points to qualify (from the group stage) - that means you have to take nine at home and two or three away," Wenger said. "We got an interesting point in Dortmund and we know after if we do well at home, then we will qualify."
Theo Walcott's expected recovery from a knock sustained against Bolton will be a major boost for Wenger who initially thought the England flyer had suffered a serious injury.
They will definitely be without Jack Wilshere though while fellow midfielder Yossi Benayoun is unlikely to have recovered from a thigh strain.
Olympiakos head into the match in better shape than they were for their opening group match against Marseille two weeks ago when they lost 1-0 in Athens.
Ernesto Valverde's team had not played a competitive match before that game due to the fact their opening two Super League games were postponed as a result of a match-fixing scandal.
The Greek Champions have since won both of their Super League fixtures.
Valverde has minimal injury worries with the only notable absentee being Greece starlet Giannis Fetfatzidis, who is still recovering from a groin strain. Midfielders Francisco Yeste and Ljubomir Fejsa both face late fitness tests.
Van Persie, club skipper in the wake of Cesc Fabregas's exit to Barcelona, scored twice in a 3-0 home victory against Bolton Wanderers on Saturday - a win that helped steady the ship after the club's worst start to a Premier League campaign.
Despite that fillip there is still a long way to go before the doom-mongers disperse and anything short of victory on Wednesday against a club with an abysmal record in England would offer them more ammunition.
Olympiakos have lost all nine away games against English opposition in Europe, conceding 29 goals in the process and scoring just once - a record that suggests even an Arsenal side in transition should build on their opening draw in Dortmund with a convincing home win.
Van Persie, 28, has scored five goals already this season and Wenger believes the Dutchman, who British media reported on Monday was in no rush to extend his current deal beyond 2013, is now mature enough to lead from the front, both as a goalscorer and a motivator.
"Robin has matured from the boy who was a little bit emotionally impulsive when he arrived to the guy he is today," Wenger told Arsenal's website.
"It was difficult to predict but he is intelligent, he speaks his mind and you can talk to him as well. He takes advice and overall he has developed very well.
"I think he has a combination of leadership on the pitch. He is technically a super-talent, certainly, and you gain respect from the others. Now he has added the second part, that means speaking his mind."
In the wake of the defensive mayhem of an 8-2 defeat at Manchester United and a 4-3 loss at Blackburn Rovers, Arsenal looked far more secure against Bolton with German Per Mertesacker assuming the role of organiser at the back.
"After the four goals against Blackburn we lost a little bit of confidence but we were very proud of our performance on Saturday," he said. "We want to go on with this way of defending."
Arsenal have a formidable record at the Emirates in the Champions League and Wenger knows smooth progression to the knockout rounds will depend on avoiding any upsets at home.
"In the Champions League, you need 11 points to qualify (from the group stage) - that means you have to take nine at home and two or three away," Wenger said. "We got an interesting point in Dortmund and we know after if we do well at home, then we will qualify."
Theo Walcott's expected recovery from a knock sustained against Bolton will be a major boost for Wenger who initially thought the England flyer had suffered a serious injury.
They will definitely be without Jack Wilshere though while fellow midfielder Yossi Benayoun is unlikely to have recovered from a thigh strain.
Olympiakos head into the match in better shape than they were for their opening group match against Marseille two weeks ago when they lost 1-0 in Athens.
Ernesto Valverde's team had not played a competitive match before that game due to the fact their opening two Super League games were postponed as a result of a match-fixing scandal.
The Greek Champions have since won both of their Super League fixtures.
Valverde has minimal injury worries with the only notable absentee being Greece starlet Giannis Fetfatzidis, who is still recovering from a groin strain. Midfielders Francisco Yeste and Ljubomir Fejsa both face late fitness tests.
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